SJ-201 / SJ201 Failure Mechanism Identified

(Props to Clary for providing the Mycroft II units used in this investigation.)

SHORT VERSION:

*) The “Died Suddenly” behavior of the SJ-201 boards is due to a failure (short) in one or more capacitors C13, C14, C19, and C20.

*) These components are employed as decoupling capacitors on the +12v supply domain powering the TAS5806MD audio amplifier.

*) A review of the SJ-201 BOM (Bill of Materials) shows that the capacitors identified above are rated for only 6.3 volt operation, hence they are prone to failing by shorting. This kills the +12v supply and all power domains derived from +12v.

*) Identification and removal of the offending device(s) will restore the SJ-201 to an operating condition. (See disclaimers at end of this post.)

LONG VERSION:

A short while back I was motivated to review the SJ-201 schematics while diagnosing a fan problem in my Mycroft II.

I was aware of the Mycroft “Died Suddenly” behavior, having experienced it with one of my previously purchased units. I also understood that the problem was attributed to failure of the SJ-201 boards.

When I reviewed the SJ-201 schematic, the power supply configuration appeared to be straightforward – there really wasn’t much to go wrong. Why were the boards failing? In my previous life as a test engineer I acquired some experience with power supply design and testing so I asked Clary if she could provide me a dead SJ-201 to analyze. She was kind enough to provide me a complete Mycroft II with a known defective SJ-201.

SJ-201 Power Supply and Domains Overview (Schematics Review):

A “wall-wart” supplies +12v to the SJ-201 via Barrel Jack J1. This input passes to a reverse polarity protection circuit providing transient/overvoltage prevention and ensuring that a “backwards” power connection cannot damage the unit. This is certainly a conservative design: I’d expect the wall-wart supplied with the Mycroft II to be reasonably clean and regulated, and center-positive power connections are the norm. In a DIY power circuit I’d likely leave these components out. The pass transistor WST4041 caught my attention as a possible fail point for killing the SJ-201.

After passing through the polarity protection, the +12v is used to power theTI Audio Amplifier circuit TAS5806MD and is also passed to voltage regulator XL4501E1 which produces a +5v output. In turn, the +5v output is passed to an LDO (Low Drop Out) regulator AM1117-3.3 to produce +3.3v and to Buck Convertor MP2359 to produce a +1.0v output. The MP2359 includes an enable signal to control its output.

Looking ahead to troubleshooting, the circuit review shows that a failure of the +12v domain will result in all SJ-201 power supplies failing. If the +12v domain is healthy, then inspection of the +5, +3.3, and +1.0 volt derived domains might identify a fail mechanism. Test points are provided on the SJ-201 for easy voltmeter access.

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Initial Mycroft II / SJ-201 Inspection:

The first unit analyzed had identification 10000 004e96 88e2. Clary had provided this defective unit with a new wall-wart supply. I first tested the wall-wart with my multimeter and obtained 12.26 volts. I used this wall-wart to power up a known good Mycroft II successfully, confirming proper operation of the wall-wart. I then used the wall-wart to attempt a power-up of the defective unit – nothing, as expected.

https://blog.graywind.org/posts/mark2-teardown/

I disassembled the defective Mycroft following Mike Grey’s procedure and removed the SJ-201 to my bench top. My first hypothesis to test was a possible fail open of WST4041, the pass transistor in the Reverse Polarity Protection Circuit. I plugged the wall-wart into the SJ-201 and measured the voltage on the output pins of Barrel Jack J1. To my surprise, the reading was approximate 0.5v, indicating a pretty solid short somewhere. If the +12v input to the board was shorted, none of the other power supplies would be expected to function and the totally dead behavior of the Mycroft made sense. For completeness I measured the test points for the +5, +3.3, and +1.0 volt domains and obtained readings of zero, as expected.

At this point, a pass transistor fail could be ruled out: An open circuit between and of the transistor leads would not affect the wall-wart voltage. If the source to drain connection in the transistor were shorted, the +12v supply would simply pass “downstream” and all power domains would remain functional. What about a source-gate or drain-gate short? Inspection of the schematic shows the gate is connected to circuit ground through a 100k ohm resistor. So a gate short with +12v input could only pass 120 micro-amperes to ground. This would have no effect on the wall-wart having a three ampere output capability.

What about the transient suppressors D16, D20, and any capacitors connected to the +12v domain throughout the board? Any of these could be a fail location, but I initially looked elsewhere: I hoped that the transient suppressors would be reasonably reliable, since their design/purpose is to mitigate voltage excursions. Capacitors could fail, but one principle of circuit troubleshooting is to suspect active (i.e. transistor, semiconductor) devices ahead of passive (resistor, capacitor, inductor) components. With this in mind, I turned my attention to the XL4501E1 voltage regulator. If this device had developed a short to ground, it could potentially kill the +12v power domain. I unsoldered the input lead (#5) on the device and re-tested the +12v supply at the barrel jack: still shorted. Disconnection of the input to the XL4501E1 effectively removed the +3.3v and +1.0v supplies from the circuit, giving evidence that these were not contributing to the observed failure.

There is one more active device attached to the +12v power domain – the TAS5806MD audio amplifier. This device is manufactured by Texas Instruments. In my experience TI components have excellent reliability. It would be distressing if the amplifier circuits were responsible for the rash of SJ-201 fails. Given the complexity of removing or testing the TAS5806MD, I elected to assume the amplifiers were not suspect at this time.

This brings our attention back to the capacitors and transient voltage suppressors. In-circuit testing of components is difficult at best, and often impossible. In most cases it becomes necessary to disconnect one lead of a component to isolate it for testing. I lacked the equipment (and patience) needed for this approach. Although my personal test resources are limited I do have a thermal imaging camera attachment for my smartphone. Thermal imaging can often identify defective components by detecting the heat produced by a short circuit.

I used my thermal camera to image the SJ-201 when connected to the wall-wart. The image showed two obvious hot spots: one was associated with theWST4041 pass transistor. This is reasonable, since the transistor is being required to carry the excess current drawn by the short. A second hot spot was observed in the vicinity of the audio amplifier. Examination of the SJ-201 showed capacitors C13 and C14 in this area. The schematic shows that these capacitors are attached to the +12v power supply, presumably to provide decoupling (noise reduction) to the current supplied to the audio amplifier. A short in one of these capacitors could be responsible for killing the +12v supply and producing the observed hot spot. My thermal camera is a first-generation device with comparatively low resolution (206x156) so I had to guess which capacitor was emitting the heat. The small size of the device and thermal coupling into the circuit board made a touch test inconclusive. I made an overlay of the thermal image with a visual photograph of SJ-201. My best guess was to suspect capacitor C13.


Thermal Image of SJ-201 with shorted +12v supply.
(The small dark pixels are defects in the thermal imager - ignore.)


Thermal image overlay on SJ-201 PCB image. Note hot spots at pass transistor on right side and just below the audio amplifier near top center.

I unplugged and used a heat gun and tweezers to C13 from the circuit board. I then plugged the wall-wart back in and performed a voltage check: At the barrel jack I measured 12.26v. At the power test points I measured 5v, 3.3v and 0v. The 1v supply output was off, but this made sense since the SJ-201 was isolated from the Pi and had no enable signal. Good enough.

I reassembled the Mycroft II and was able to successfully boot the unit up OS 24.4.8. (I placed this unit into service May 14, 2024 and it has remained functional since that time.)

After my remedial action restored the SJ-201 to functionality I did some additional investigation into the failure, examining the SJ-201 schematics and BOM: Capacitors C13, C14, C19, and C20 are listed as manufacturer’s part number CL10A226MQ8NRNE. This is a Samsung capacitor, 22uf, rated for 6.3v operation. However, these capacitors are being used for decoupling a +12v supply to the TI amp, so they are being subjected to overstress. BTW, I was looking at the R10 (production) revision schematics, which matches the silkscreen number on the board I analyzed.

Failure Confirmation:

Although I was successful restoring operation to one SJ-201, was the failure identified unique, or is the mechanism responsible for the rash of dead Mycroft II units?

Clary was kind enough to supply me with three additional dead Mycroft II devices. If I understood her communication correctly, these units had not been analyzed to confirm dead SJ-201 boards; they were simply known to not work.

Starting with the hypothesis of a failed decoupling capacitor (C13, C14, C19, C20) I followed an abbreviated analysis procedure:
*) Plug in 12v wall-wart and confirm presence of a short with voltage measurement at barrel jack
*) Image using thermal camera with identification of a hot spot at a decoupling capacitor
*) Pry offending capacitor off the PCB

The same failure mode was observed in each of the three additional Mycroft II units. Additionally, I was able to restore operation in each unit by removal of the offending capacitor.

Unit ID Capacitor Removed
100000 00f7fd 6ce0 C20
100000 0043a0 d99b C20
100000 003578 c476 C14


Offending Capacitors Removed from SJ-201 Boards

I also confirmed voltage at the 5v and 3.3v test points after capacitor removal; as mentioned earlier the 1v test point remained at zero since the enable signal was not available at the voltage regulator.


Mycroft II Units Operating After SJ-201 Service

Miscellaneous Notes and Observations:

*) All units in this analysis had R10 revision SJ-201 boards

https://github.com/MycroftAI/hardware-mycroft-mark-II/tree/master/mark-II-production

*) To access the SJ-201, it is not necessary to completely disassemble the Mycroft. Instead you can:
- open the front
- disconnect the ribbon cable to the display
- unplug the speaker connections
- unplug the fan connection
- remove three screws securing the Pi/SJ-201 module in place
- carefully slide out leaving the camera cable connected to the Pi
- unplug the Pi from the SJ-201 leaving the SJ-201 attached to the top plate

*) Any one of the four capacitors listed could be a fail point. Although removal of a shorted capacitor may restore the operation of the SJ-201, the remaining capacitors on the board could fail in the future.

*) Without a thermal camera, identification of the specific failing capacitor will be difficult for the DIY user. A person with sensitive touch (not me) may be able to detect a warm device, or perhaps one could chill the board and breathe on it to fog the surface? Persons who enjoy gambling could pull the capacitors off one at a time, but…

*) Removal of all four capacitors might prevent board failure by shorting, but the operation of the audio amplifier may be compromised without power supply decoupling. I did not want to perform this experiment because it risked ruining an otherwise useful Mycroft device.

*) Instead of unsoldering the defective capacitor from the SJ-201, I was able to simply pry the devices off using a hemostat tool. Just be gentle!

*) Be careful with the ribbon connections to the Pi; they are kinda delicate.

Conclusions:

The decoupling capacitors C13, C14, C19, C20 are likely the root cause of most SJ-201 fails being reported. I’m very frightened. I assume virtually all Mycroft II units have a ticking time bomb inside. If I encounter future SJ-201 failures in my Mycroft II units I intend to repeat the analysis and remove additional capacitors as necessary.

Disclaimer:

I am simply summarizing the investigations I performed and actions I took. I am not recommending that anyone attempt to duplicate my efforts. YMMV and you may experience disaster.

I am terming the actions I performed as a “remedy” for the failure, and not a repair. By removing the decoupling capacitors the performance of the audio amplifier may be compromised. Furthermore you may be negating device compliance regulations (e.g. CE, FCC) in your region. If you go prison for 100 years I am not going to visit you.

A proper repair would consist of removing the problematic capacitors and replacing them with devices having a higher (>12v) voltage rating. This requires equipment for surface mount soldering/desoldering that is unlikely to be found with the average DIY hobby enthusiast. Having a commercial repair facility perform the replacement would not likely be cost effective.

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Quick copy/paste from Matrix;

According the datasheet of the TAS5806MD it supports configuring the chip of which the voltage is one of the parameters which defaults to a PVDD of 24volt. Mycroft is not uploading a firmware nor changing the default values.

Would it help if we change the TAS5806md firmware to work on a lower voltage? Say 6 volt? with the downside to not have the full scale of volume (which we never had because of a hard limit set to around 60% anyway in their scripts)

More info over at the driver side I am working on which is based on initial code released over at the Texas Instruments Knlowledge center.

Mycroft have not released any firmware image for the DAC to be pushed toward the chip and in their script only set the same cold preboot parameters.

They also hard limit the volume output to 60%.

Maybe we can change the setting to use a lower PVDD voltage (withdraw less?) and remove the hardcoded limit of 60% as that also will no longer be needed.

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Plus having proper hardware volume control for ALSA instead of an userland python script. (The main reason i started working on it)

Peter,

You are on to something…

You are correct - the TAS5806MD datasheet states that the device is capable of operating at an analog input voltage as low as 4.5v.

The challenge with the SJ-201 design is other locations where the +12v input gets used…

We are almost lucky: if I read the schematics correctly, the +12v input is also used to power the XL4501E1 buck converter to generate +5v. And to power the cooling fan.

The +5v gets sent out the pin header to power up the Pi, and is also down-converted to +3.3v and +1.0v for logic.

The XL4501E1 datasheet says that it can accept an input voltage as low as +8v.

So, maybe we don’t have to put +12v into the power jack of the Mycroft II. Could it run on +8v?

The answer is yes. I was able to boot my Mycroft II (100000 00f7fd 6ce0) using a benchtop power supply (1 amp) set to 8v. I do not have a proper 3 amp power supply capable of a full voltage range, but I did several tests with the following results:

Power Supply & Result


+9v, 1 amp Wall-Wart -Boots Up; functions

+7.5v, 1 amp Wall Wart -No boot, low voltage indication on screen

+8v, 1 amp benchtop power supply -Boots Up; functions

+5v, 3 amp benchtop power supply -No boot; low voltage indication on screen


The key is that operation of the Mycroft at a lower input voltage is going to take the stress off those decoupling caps and likely extend their lifetime.

A side effect of low voltage operation may be compromising the fan operation. From what I understand the Pi 4 has a built-in thermal regulation where it will slow the clock if overheating is imminent. I have not looked at possible fan substitutions to see if lower voltage devices could be substituted.

The takeaway is that lower voltage operation seems feasible. I may be shopping for some lower voltage wall-warts soon.

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Correct, and also the fan is set in software to ramp up based on reported CPU temp. In my experience, the fan only runs at 100% if its been off for some time and needs to catch up on removing hot air; I think it can maintain temperatures running well below full-speed.

Just chiming in to say that I had a Mark2 fail last week and got it back up and running by removing the 4 capacitors as suggested here. I used a pair of flush cutters to get enough grip to carefully pry or twist each cap off. I certainly damaged the pads on the board though, so I wouldn’t recommend anyone do the same if they hope to properly repair the board.

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thanks a lot for the analysis!

what does this mean for the end user?
will all Mark II devices fail eventually?
and as it’s related to a power failure, is there any danger associated with it, like a fire?

is there a chance of getting a replacement before it fails?

thanks a lot!

I’m not sure that all Mark 2 devices will fail, but they do all have this design flaw and could fail in this way eventually. The device I “fixed” recently was running 24/7 without issue for months before I found it powered off one day, so I don’t believe there’s any particular behavior that increases the chance of failure (I have another unit on my desk subject to very similar conditions that is still running normally).

I don’t believe we have had any reports or smoke, excess heat, or fire associated with this component failure.

There is no revision of the board that resolved this issue, so a replacement would have the same risk of failure in the future.

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Alright thanks @NeonDaniel for the quick response!

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greetings, just found this conversation. I have a Mark II and it failed just as described here, worked one day then nothing. checked wall -wart and it is good.
I am hoping this is the solution too. let u all know how it goes after some more research on solutions to fix my Mark II. Would really like it to run off chat GPT-4 or other AI available. Its a nice form factor and want to use it in Home assistant.

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Wanted to chime in here and say that I also removed all 4 capacitors mentioned in the post and restored my Mycroft MK2 to working order. I wasn’t going to get a thermal camera anytime soon and the gamble seems to be paying off. Time will tell.

I did not remove the SJ-201 board. I only opened the front, disconnected the ribbon cable for the display and laid the front to the side, taking care not to stress the orange camera ribbon cable. I was able to see all 4 capacitors and confirm the little number beside them matched the ones given in the post by fiddling around with my phone’s camera. I then used a pair of Crescent Mini Pliers to pull them off, it was a little bit tricky but I never felt like I needed to remove the SJ-201 board to do it. One of the capacitors kind of crumbled in half but I made sure to clean all the material between the two connection points. Put it back together and it powered right on. The hardest part was probably plugging the display cable ribbon back in.

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My apologies to the community - I’ve been meaning to share an update and comments to the community for some time concerning the SJ201 failures.

*) All of the SJ201 boards appear to be at risk based on the published BOM. Whether they will all fail is a matter of chance.

*) The 12v wall wart provided with the Mycroft units appears to fail gracefully: When confronted with the shorted decoupling capactitors, the output voltage/current drop and the energy being provided to the circuit board is minimal. As long as this is true, the risk for fire or other heat damage would be low. Other power supplies may not be so well behaved and a shorted component could be subjected to a high current and a lot of heating. (In a previous life I would sometimes identify failed circuit components by leaving the power on until I could see smoke or a red glow.)

*) As discussed in my original posting , I only removed the offending (shorted) capacitors which my analysis identified. Subsequent to that time, one unit (100000 0043a0 d99b) failed again in service. Repeat testing showed capacitor C13 had additionally failed. Removal of this capacitor restored functionality. The key takeaway is that continued operation at 12v may eventually damage all of the decoupling capacitors with the weakest devices dying first.

) Operation of the Mycroft units with a lower voltage power supply may reduce the chance of component failure for those devices which have remained functional thus far. Since August '24 I have been powering my Mycroft devices using 9v wall warts purchased from Jameco Electronics. The part numbers I have used are:

Jameco 2138935 (9v, 2A)
Jameco 2225676 (9v, 2.77A)

*Other brands/devices with sufficient current and the proper plug should work. I have no relationship with Jameco and this is not an endorsement. YMMV

*) I have not encountered any serious issues with 9v operation. I have seen a low CPU voltage warning flash on boot a couple of times, but it disappears and everything works.

*) A word of warning - a poor power supply selection will cause problems. When I was experimenting with lower voltage operation I also purchased an inexpensive 8 volt supply from a vendor on eBay. I wanted to see if even lower voltage operation was possible. When I attempted to boot my Mycroft (100000 0086fb b5bb) the screen came on briefly followed by an explosion of the wall wart case. My inspection showed that one of the electrolytic filter capacitors in the wall wart had exploded. I suspect that this component was originally wired with reverse polarity - an almost surefire way make what Elon Musk calls a “rapid unscheduled disassemebly.” So, the event was a result of a manufacturing defect in the wall wart, not a Mycroft issue.

*) Subsequent to the 8v wall wart test the Mycroft failed to function. I performed a failure analysis with my thermal camera and deteremined that TVS (Transient Voltage Suppresor) diode D16 had failed. Lacking the means to replace this diode I simply removed it and was able to restore functionality. The TVS is a good design feature, but operation seems ok without it.

*) After having my cage rattled by the wall wart explosion I ceased further experiments and decided to remain with the Jameco devices. Nine volt operation still exceeds the 6v specification of the SJ201 decoupling capacitors, but reduces the electrical stress as compared with the original 12v power supply, hopefully extending their lifetimes.

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I was lucky enough to get one of the Mycroft “kits” with all the electronics and printable stl files. My SJ-201 is a version 6 (I think, I’m at work now) Anyone know if these had the lower voltage caps on this series?

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If you can locate the design files for your kit, see if there is a BOM (Bill of Materials). I was stumbling through the Github docs when I located the R10 version - it was a .csv file (Excel readable: SJ-201-R10-2022-07-29-08-44-49.csv).

That’s were I found the manufacturer’s part number for the capacitors (column label: MPN). That number can be cross-referenced at various supplier web sites to get the part specs. My favorite supplier sites are Mouser, DigiKey, Newark, and Allied Electronics.

The BOM is your best hope, physical inspection of the capacitors won’t help as the information stamped on them is usually limited or non-existent. They are just too small.

Good luck and let us know what you find!

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If you got loose parts to assemble, then that is the R6 board. I don’t know of any reported failures of those boards, but I haven’t personally gone through the BOM.

I do see the Dev Kit BOM on GitHub, though I’m not sure which source they ended up using as there are 3 of them.

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Hi Daniel - I looked at all three BOM listings and the part numbers for capacitors C13, 14, 19, and 20 all match the problematic devices on the R10 production boards: CL10A226MQ8NRNE.

As a result, I’d expect the “kit” SJ-201 devices to have the same voltage stress vulnerability as production models.

heato - you seem to have three options:

a) live with the situation and take action later if the devices fail
b) pre-emptively remove them
c) try the approach of using a lower voltage power supply to get a bit of “insurance”

I personally would reject option “b” simply because opening the case and messing around with stuff always involves some risk of breaking something (at least in my case because I can be clumsy), so why fix something that is working?

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